Determining if a Cat is Overweight or Obese

There is no magical body weight that is appropriate for all cats. The breed, general size, and age of the cat all have a factor in how much it should weigh. To determine the optimal weight of a specific cat, it is best to consult a veterinarian. In general, however, a cat whose ribs are hard to feel because they are covered with a layer of fat is overweight or obese, depending on how thick the layer of fat is.

A cat is also considered to be obese if it has a moderate or thick layer of fat that covers all of its bony areas. Some obese cats even develop a bulge under the abdomen, which is sometimes referred to as a “skirt.” If the cat doesn’t have a visible waist and if the back appears broad when viewed from above, the cat is obese.

Risks of Obesity

A cat that is overweight or obese runs the risk of developing a variety of health disorders. Some disorders that are common for obese cats to develop include: diabetes mellitus, lower urinary tract disease, joint stress, aggravation of osteoarthritis, non-allergic skin diseases, decreased stamina, and Hepatic lipidosis, which is fat deposited in the liver.

In addition, a cat that is overweight or obese has develops a decrease in immune function, can have difficulty giving birth, and can develop breathing problems.

Obesity Risk Factors

Some cats are more likely to become overweight or obese than others. In general, however, cats are just like humans. If a cat takes in more calories than it uses, it will gain weight. The excess energy it gains from the calories becomes stored as fat.

Purebred cats, however, are less likely to become obese than mixed breeds. In addition, cats that are neutered have a tendency to gain weight more easily than those who are not, probably in part due to the fact that non-neutered cats have the tendency to roam in search of a mate. In addition, the metabolic rate of a neutered cat decreases by about 20%. Therefore, a neutered cat needs less food in order to maintain its ideal body weight.

Cats under two years of age are less likely to be overweight or obese than cats that are between the ages of two and ten. This is because cats between these ages require less energy. On the other hand, geriatric cats, which are older than ten, have a tendency to be underweight. In addition, certain medications can make a cat more likely to gain weight, as some medications will cause an increase in appetite and other medications cause a decrease in metabolic rate. Some medications that commonly lead to weight gain in cats are cortisosteroids, cyperoheptidine, and amytripyline.

Treating Obesity in the Cat

It is not healthy for an overweight or obese cat to lose weight too quickly. In fact, rapid weight loss increases a cat’s likelihood of developing hepatic lipidosis, which is a fatal liver disease that causes fat to be deposited in the liver. Instead, an overweight or obese cat should lose weight steadily and gradually. In fact, it can take up to a year for a severely overweight cat to reach its ideal body weight in a healthy manner.

To best help a cat lose weight in a healthy manner, a veterinarian should be consulted. He or she can help create a healthy eating plan. It is important to note that cats are carnivores, which means they must have meat in their diets in order to survive. Therefore, cutting out meat in an attempt to lose weight is not a good idea. In fact, it can prove to be fatal to the cat. Furthermore, since a cat’s natural diet consists of meat, which provides high protein and low carbohydrates, the diet should contain similar foods. This type of diet actually helps the cat lose fat and still maintain lean body mass, such as muscle.

To help an overweight or obese cat lose weight, it also should be encouraged to get plenty of exercise. This is particularly true for older cats with slower metabolisms, neutered cats, indoor cats with restricted activity, and cats on medication that affects weight. Pet owners can encourage exercise by playing with the cat often. For more direct exercise, a cat harness can be purchased to walk the cat around the house or up and down stairs. Feeding bowls can even be moved to areas that require more walking and, of course, cut down on the portions of food an overweight cat receives.

Maintaining Weight

Once the cat is down to its optimal weight, its weight can be maintained by purchasing special “light” or low calorie formulas of food. These formulas are specifically created for cats who are less active or who have decreased metabolism.

Cats and Toxoplasmosis

Cats can become infected with toxoplasmosis in the same way as humans, which is by eating contaminated food or drinking contaminated water. In humans, toxoplasmosis can also be contracted by eating infected vegetables that have not been cleaned. In addition, toxoplasmosis can be transmitted by receiving an infected blood transfusion or organ transplant, though this is rare.

Eating birds, mice, or other animals infects the most common means for cats to become infected with toxoplasmosis with the toxoplasma parasite. For indoor cats, eating uncooked scraps of meat is the most common means of infection.

After a cat ingests the toxoplasma parasite, it excretes toxoplasma oocysts in its feces. In fact, it excretes millions of them every day for up to two weeks. These oocysts become infections after one or two days. Feces usually don’t remain on cats for two days, so humans aren’t generally infected by contact with the cat. Instead, humans become infected by accidentally swallowing the cat’s feces. This occurs by accidentally touching the feces, then touching the mouth. Accidentally touching the feces can occur during gardening or when cleaning the cat’s litter box.

Signs of Toxoplasmosis in Cats and Humans

Cats do not usually show signs of a toxoplasma infection. For this reason, it is difficult to determine what cat feces can transmit the parasite.

Children who become infected with toxoplasmosis often do not show signs at birth, either, but they develop signs later in life. Signs of toxoplasmosis include loss of hearing, mental retardation, loss of vision and even death. For this reason, it is important for a woman who is attempting to become pregnant to be tested for Toxoplasma gondii prior to becoming pregnant. It is estimated that approximately 3,000 children in the United States are born with a toxoplasmosis infection every year.

Testing is particularly important as many adults do not experience symptoms of toxoplasma and, therefore, don’t realize they are infected. Some adults, however, have flu-like symptoms and suffer from swollen glands or ache and pains in their muscles. These symptoms can last over a month.

In severe cases, adults can experience damage to their eyes, brain, and other organs. These severe cases are more likely in individuals who have a weakened immune system, though eye damage can occur in individuals with healthy immune systems.

Preventing Toxoplasmosis

To prevent a toxoplasmosis infection in a cat, it is best to keep it indoors where it cannot eat rodents and birds. In addition, cats should only be feed cooked meat or meat that has been processed and commercially canned for cats. There is currently no vaccine to prevent toxoplasmosis.

Owning a Cat: for those with risk factors

People who are at a greater risk for toxoplasma such as those who are pregnant or who have a weakened immune system, can still safely keep a cat as a pet. In order to avoid becoming infected with toxoplasma, however, care must be taken to keep the cat healthy and free from toxoplasma.

The best way to prevent an infection in the cats is to keep it indoors and to feed it dry or canned cat food. A new cat who may have previously spent time outdoors or who might have been fed raw meat should not be brought indoors. Stray cats and kittens should also be avoided, as should the outdoor areas they tend to frequent. This includes sand boxes, where outdoor cats tend to defecate often.

In addition, a person with a healthy immune system and who is not pregnant should change the cat’s litter box every day. Failure to keep the litter box clean increases the chances of feces getting stuck to the cat’s fur and spreading toxoplasma. If there is no one available to clean the litter box, gloves should be worn when cleaning the litter box. Afterward, hands should be washed with antibacterial soap and water.

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During the final days of her pregnancy, a female cat will become restless and begin to search for a place to have her kittens. She will look for a small, out of the way area where she will not feel threatened while giving birth. You can provide her with a lined box or basket, but the chances of her picking that spot are slim. If your indoor cat chooses a bathroom as a birthing place, it might be wise to close the drains to the bathtubs and line it with an old rug or towels.

Birthing is a natural process and most cats have no trouble delivering her kittens. Inexperienced mothers may be taken by surprise, though, and should be closely monitored during the final days of pregnancy. It is not unusual for a new mother to be scared and try to harm a kitten right after it is born. Another way you can help your cat give birth is to be prepared for the unexpected. Have the number to your vet and a number to a 24-hour animal hospital on hand just in case something goes wrong. Also, have a few clean towels ready to use if you have the need to wrap a kitten or the mother up and rush her to the vet. It is also wise to have a suction bulb and blunt scissors ready. Both of these can be used if the mother fails to accept her babies and you need to intervene.

When it is time for your female cat to give birth, she will become very restless and begin pacing the room. This is a sign that she is in labor and is preparing to give birth. Some female cats will stop eating when labor is about to begin. When the first kitten begins to come, she will get in her spot and will have rapid breathing. The first kitten will usually deliver about an hour after labor starts. Other kittens can come up to two hours a part. Most of the time, all kittens should be delivered within 24 hours.

It is important to watch your cat give birth. Most cats have no difficulty in delivering and taking care of her babies. There are rare circumstances where the mother rejects her kittens and will not remove them from the membrane sac. If this happens it will be necessary to hold the kitten in a soft, clean towel and remove the membrane. If this is not done quickly the kitten can suffocate and die. The mother cat will also chew off the umbilical cord. If she fails to do this, tie a piece of dental floss on the cord and clip it off.

After the first kitten is born, the mother cat should nurse her kitten right away. The nursing will stimulate the birthing process and will help deliver the other kittens. It is not unusual to see a little yellow or red discharge while nursing for the first time. If the kittens are having a hard time nursing or are not getting enough milk, you may need to consult your vet for advice.

Most mothers are champs at taking care of their babies and need very little assistance in doing so. A mother cat can be spayed between eight and ten weeks after giving birth. This is a very important step to ensure that she does not give birth to an unwanted litter. It is never a good idea to let your female cat give birth to a litter just for the experience. A female cat can live normally without ever having a litter of kittens.

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What happens if your cat starts meowing and scratching, and scratching is not part of the cat’s normal behavior? Go take a look at its litter box. Cats do not like going potty in a dirty litter box. If the litter box looks like it needs to be cleaned, then do it and see if the cat continues the meowing and scratching behavior. If you interpreted the cat’s vocalizations correctly, it will have gone straight to the fresh, clean litter box to conduct a little “business.” If not, then you still have a problem on your hands trying to figure out what your cat is trying to tell you.

Purring is also part of the cat’s vocalization. And when paired with some meowing, you may just have a cat on your hands that is trying to suck up to you. Sometimes, it is for a food treat, a good ear scratching session or a little play time. So it is up to you, as the owner, to interpret that purring and try all three solutions. Chances are that your cat would appreciate all three! Cats are bold animals. If they wanted the ear scratching first, they would probably just head butt your hand until you commenced with the scratching.

The cat’s tail can also tell the tale when paired with meowing or some other vocalization. That twitching tail can mean anything from being happy to restless to fearful. For instance, if the cat’s tail is twitching furiously and accompanied by a meow, that could signal excitement, meaning they want to play. If you were holding them or petting them, it could mean to cease and desist – they’ve had enough! If a cat is feeling threatened, they may tuck their tail down low and emit a low growling type of sound or even hissing. The cat’s ears may also look pinned back as well.

If your cat is not usually the meowing fool, be certain that you are alert for any signs of changing behavior. Sometimes, when cats get sick, they try not to show their “weakness.” So when they start to meow suddenly, think back to any unusual behaviors. Signs of scratching, potty accidents or loss of appetite could have been a precursor to illness. The meowing is an indicator that they cannot take it anymore and need help. Big changes in a cat’s life could also be the key to your kitty’s sudden overabundance of vocalization. Have you moved recently? Was there a death in the family? Have you introduced another animal to your home? These can all precipitate the meowing, cat calls or caterwauling.

Of course, all that noise from your cat could simply indicate that they want to play or get your attention. For them, it is especially fun to do this while you, their ever-loving owners, are asleep in bed. Whatever you do, do not show any reaction. Giving them attention – whether positive or negative – just encourages them. Try to ignore them or close your bedroom door. If that doesn’t work, keep a water gun by your bed and shoot it with water every time they wake you up with their meowing. Cats hate getting wet!

Your furry family member possesses a multitude of meows and other vocalizations. You may never be able to interpret a lot of what they are communicating to you. However, the few ideas above should give you a good start in the right direction.

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One of the things that most cat owners want to learn is how to train a cat to use a litter box. The first step in making sure that they will be trained in this is by building an environment that they will be attracted to. This means an area that is private, easy to get to as well as clean. Kitty litter is the best thing to use, because cats are naturally attracted to raking things as a survival instinct so that they leave no scent behind. By knowing their behaviors, as well as making the right environment for them, it will be easier to train them. The next thing to do is introduce the cat to the litter box. This will get them used to the idea of using it. If they don’t use it at first, don’t punish them. Simply take the waste and put it in the litter box. This will give the cat the idea that this is the territory that they should use. This makes it easy to train your cat.

Another thing that you can train your cat to not do is scratch in certain places. Cats are generally responsive to different smells in areas, which is what causes them to scratch. By changing the smell, it will move them away from the area that they are scratching. Scents such as citrus and bitter apple are two different sprays that you can put which will cause your cat to naturally move away from the area and stop scratching because they don’t like the scent.

One of the major problems that cats may cause is jumping on counters and places where they don’t belong. This is fairly easy to solve. You can place an object on the counter that will cause a loud bang, such as pop cans. The sound will scare the cat, causing them to move off of the counter. It will also train the cat to not jump onto the area anymore. By doing this, you are letting the cat know that this certain area is not their territory. They will quickly back off of the area, not moving onto it anymore.

One of the ways which is becoming more popular for the training of cats is known as clicker training. By using positive reinforcement and a click, you can train your cat to do more than the normal cats are used to doing, as well as move beyond the preventative measures that you are taking for your cat. You can allow your cat to do things such as sit, do tricks, jump, fetch, etc. by making a certain sound. After they do this, you give them a kitty treat, making the clicker training a game for both you and the cat. This can also be used for the destructive behaviors that cats sometimes do as part of their nature.

Knowing cats’ behaviors and what they naturally and instinctively do in their environment is the first step to take in training a cat. By doing this, you will avoid several problems that some cats’ cause in their environment. Beyond this, you can train a cat by methods that have been used successfully with cat and animal owners. Through this, you will be able to train your cat without causing problems or frustration. Cats are known as highly intelligent animals that are easy to train. When you know the right methods, this training becomes much easier.

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1. Think like a cat

This one is a good place to start, particularly if you have never owned a cat before. Get down on the floor and survey the room from a cat’s perspective—after you’ve closed the blinds, of course! What might pique a cat’s interest? What stands out as a potential danger to the cat? Be sure to use a flashlight and look under the sofa and in smaller areas that a human can’t easily reach, but might be tempting for a cat to explore. Keep a list of the potential hazards that you discover.

2. Remove temptation

Now that you have identified some of the hazards and off-limit items that may be facing your cat, do something about it. Start by moving any small breakables, irreplaceables, or valuable items out of reach. Out of reach, however, is a relative term for cats, as adults cats can jump and climb nearly anywhere in a room. When possible, store valuables away in a closed container. Also keep in mind furniture—if any pieces are extremely important to you, you may want to move them to a room that is off-limits to the cat.

3. Seek out hidden dangers

Go around any areas the cat will be in once again, this time with an eye for hidden dangers. One that pet owners may not consider is poisonous plants. Cats are often attracted to the movement of plants, and investigate by biting as well as pawing. Either move poisonous plants to a different part of the house or hang them out of reach.

Another item that attracts cats with its movement is cords: hanging blind cords, phone cords, or electrical cords. Cords that can’t be moved out of reach or fastened securely can be sprayed with Bitter Apple, a harmless but unpleasant tasting substance.

Finally, remove any small hazardous items such as paper clips, thumb tacks, or pest poisons from the area.

4. Litter box

The litter box should be placed somewhere easy for the cat to access, away from busy areas, and out of the reach of any inquisitive dogs or small children. It’s best to put the litter box on a hard surface, as sometimes cats may mistake soft carpet around it for the actual litter box. Once you get your new cat home, she will let you know what type of litter and box she prefers.

5. Make some areas off limits

In the first few tips, it was recommended to move hazardous or valuable materials to another part of the house. Before you can do this, however, you need to decide what parts of the house can and should be considered off-limits. If a room is a high-traffic area or does not have doors, you should not plan on making it off-limits to your cat. Typically an unused bedroom is a good place to put off-limits items or, alternately, be certain to secure them in closed storage areas throughout the house. The garage is one area that should always be considered off-limits, as there are too many chemicals and hazardous materials in there.

6. Shop till you drop

In addition to the many obvious essentials, such as a litter box and food, several other items will make you and your new cat more comfortable. As mentioned in regards to cords, Bitter Apple Spray is a handy purchase for when moving danger items is not an option.

To save your furniture and keep your cat happy, a scratching post is also a good investment. If you like to build things, you could make it yourself. Or purchase one from a store—there is a great range of styles and prices available.

Although some cat owners prefer to have their cats sleep with them, it’s also a good idea to purchase a cat bed. Your cat can use this throughout the day, for short cat naps, or at night. Ask store employees about what size would be appropriate, depending on your cat’s age and breed.

7. Stock the pantry

Your best option for finding a food your new cat likes would be if you can speak with the cat’s former owners. If not, be sure to pay attention to the needs of your cat based on age or physical condition. Kittens need more nutrients than adult cats do, and overweight cats may be put on a special diet.

Don’t forget that the food needs to go somewhere! Food and water bowls should be ceramic or metallic—plastic is not recommended as some cats may develop a chin rash. If you will be gone for long periods of time, also consider automatic food and water servers.

8. Cat Toys

Cats are born to hunt or—in the case of pet cats—play. Playing offers you an opportunity to bond with your new cat and help kittens develop. There’s a wide variety of toys available in any pet store, from the very small to elaborate houses and climbing posts. Purchase toys based on your budget, your living situation, and what your new cat’s preferences might be. If it is an older cat, you may want to stick with smaller toys. With a kitten, the sky’s the limit!

9. Cat carrier

Cat carriers are a necessity even if you plan on keeping your new cat indoors. For starters, you will need a way to get the cat home from the shelter or pet store. Additionally, there will be many trips to the vet and possibly to friends’ houses or a boarding facility when you are on trips. A cardboard carrier is a good short-term solution, but you will eventually want to purchase a sturdy plastic one that will afford your cat comfort and security during travel.

10. Cat Grooming

If accustomed to it, cats enjoy grooming just as much as playing. It is also important to your cat’s health, since grooming helps prevent hairballs and overgrown nails can become problematic. Be sure to get a fine-toothed comb and rubber-backed pin brush for brushing, and a nail clipper specifically designed for cats.

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The main reason it is important to spay or neuter a cat is because there is a terrible overpopulation problem with cats. In fact, the United States alone has puts over 10 million cats and dogs to death every year by euthanasia. This is performed routinely in animal shelters because there are simply too many animals and not enough homes for them to live.

The majority of cats that are put to sleep are healthy and friendly animals. The majority of them are also young. For the sake of the animals, it is important to have then spayed or neutered to avoid creating more animals with no place to live.

Benefits to the Pet Owner

Having the cat spayed or neutered is also beneficial to the pet owner. First, a pet that is spayed or neutered tends to be better behaved and is more responsive to humans. In addition, cats that are spayed or neutered generally have a longer and healthier life, which means the pet will be around much longer to be enjoyed and loved. Also, the improved health of the pet means fewer visits to the vet. In fact, it has been shown that spayed felines are less likely to develop mammary cancers and neutered males are less likely to develop uterine infections.

In addition, cats that are spayed or neutered are less likely to “mark” their territory with smelly sprays or to damage furniture. Cats that are spayed or neutered also tend to live a safer lifestyle, as they are less likely to roam through the neighborhood in search of a mate or to try running out of the house every time the door is opened.

Spaying a Cat

To spay a female cat, the veterinarian removes the uterus and the ovaries through a surgical procedure. In general, it is best to spay a cat at around 6 months of age, or before she has her first heat cycle. The full name of the procedure is ovariohysterectomy.

To perform the surgery, the veterinarian first puts the cat under anesthesia. He then makes a cut through the cat in order to remove the ovaries and the uterus. The incision is then closed with non-absorbable stitches, sub-cuticular stitches, or sutures. With non-absorbable stitches, it is necessary to bring the cat back in 7 to 10 days in order to have the stitches removed. With sutures, the sutures are placed below the skin. Here, they gradually dissolve on their own into the cat’s body.

A female cat can also undergo a tubal ligation. With this procedure, the female cat is sterilized, but she still comes into heat and attracts males. For this reason, a tubal ligation is a less popular choice with pet owners. With either form of spaying, the female cat can generally return the same day as the surgery and can be active within a couple days.

A female can be spayed while she is in her heat cycle, though most vets prefer not to perform the surgery at that time. There is often an increase in the cost of the surgery for cats that are in their heat cycle at the time. This is because the surgery requires extra attention to detail since the blood supply to the uterus is increased. Nonetheless, it is best to spay a cat during her heat cycle rather than wait because she may become pregnant to contract an illness from a cat she mates with.

Neutering

When a male cat is neutered, his testicles are removed after applying an anesthesia. Often, the cuts to remove the testicles are so small the cat doesn’t require stitches or sutures in order to heal. A male cat should be neutered by around 6 months of age.

Neutering is not the same as a feline vasectomy. With a vasectomy, the cat is sterilized, but the cat will still be territorial. This means he will still spray and wander for a mate.

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Clay litter is the cheapest option, and the most commonly used, but is also the most problematic. It doesn’t hold smells in well, for one thing, and you must change all the litter when you change out the cat’s litter. You can find a baking-soda based cat litter deodorizer, and that seems to work well with eliminating kitty odors. Clay cat litter should be changed every three days in general. If you have a lot of cats (that’s three or more) you may find yourself changing it every day. If you only have one very tidy cat, you may be able to get away with fishing out her solid waste and disposing of that, then changing the litter as infrequently as once a week. Your nose will tell you.

If you have more than one cat, or if your cat is one of those unfortunate stinky kitties, you should consider clumping litter. This looks very sandy in texture, and some cats won’t use it. But if yours will, you can fish out the solid waste and the clumps of litter every day. This largely eliminates the odor problem, and you will save money in the long run because you can wait as long as a month between litter changes.

Another option that I haven’t had much luck with is the crystal litter option. These litters use absorbent blue and white crystals that have about the same pebbly consistency as clay litters. They’re supposed to absorb kitty urine, neutralizing the odor. You should add new litter daily, fishing out solid waste and turning the litter over so that the urine-soaked crystals are evenly distributed. I have a lot of cats right now, and no matter what I did, I couldn’t get the crystals to absorb urine properly. I don’t know if you’d have the same problem with just one or two cats, but I suspect you might. If your other litter works well, you should just avoid this one.

For the odor problem, in pet stores you can find activated charcoal in containers that will absorb your kitty odors. I was skeptical of these, but they work beautifully. Get a covered litter box and put the activated charcoal on top of the lid for best results. And the charcoal lasts practically forever, too; you just have to freshen it every six months or so by exposing it to sunlight for several hours.

Beyond litter, there are other things you might look at for disposing of kitty’s waste. You can get a motorized litter box, for instance; these gadgets sweep the litter for solid parts, dumping it tidily into a plastic bag for you to remove and dispose of. You never have to touch anything nasty, just push a button. The drawbacks: price, phobic kitties, and unreliability. These boxes cost around a hundred dollars each, and if the mechanism gets wet they will break. Well, cats pee in litter boxes, don’t they? There’s a fair chance your gadget will get doused at some point, especially if you have a kitty that doesn’t like them. How would you feel if you had to potty where you’d Seen Things Move earlier in the day? Cats are smart, and some just won’t put up with this.

You can also train your cat to use the toilet, if you start early. You’ll have to order a kit to do it, but once it’s done all you have to do is flush. (For that matter, I’ve seen films of cats flushing their own toilets when they finish!) Older cats won’t take to it at all, but when kittens start using the litter box, you can train them to do it.

No matter what litter method you use, be sensitive to the cat, and don’t introduce anything abruptly. Cats don’t like change, and swapping their reliable clay litter for that newfangled crystal stuff may result in Kitty doing her number in your favorite shoes. Read the directions on the litter package for specific directions on introducing Kitty to new litter.

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Nutritional Needs

A young kitten has very specific nutritional needs. In general, cats need only four main nutrients: meat-based protein, taurine (an amino acid), water, and various vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. Kittens, however, need higher amounts of all these ingredients to grow properly and have the energy needed for just being a kitten!

For the first five weeks of its life, a kitten should be nursing from its mother. At week five, kittens can start to be weaned, although they will continue to nurse until they are eight or ten weeks old, satisfying their need for suckling. Often, pet owners will feed the mother a nutrient-packed kitten food while she is pregnant and for the first few weeks after birth. At week five, you can start the kitten on the same canned kitten food that the mother has been eating; she should take to it readily. Be sure that the first ingredient listed is a specific meat source such as chicken, beef, or lamb.

Kittens should continue to eat kitten food for the first year of life. At six weeks of age, kittens should be receiving at least four small meals spaced throughout the day. At twelve weeks you can increase the amount of food in each meal and gradually move toward three meals a day. At six months, meals can be spaced out to two times daily. At one year of age, most kittens are considered fully grown and can be switched over to adult food, fed twice daily. Because cats are capable of stopping themselves from eating when they have reached their nutritional requirements, you can also leave out a bowl of dry kibble throughout the day.

Types of Food

The biggest food debate among cat owners is always whether to use wet, canned food or dry kibble. The answer is: both. Canned food has water, which your kitten may not get enough of on a regular basis. Dry food, however, is more convenient for a busy pet owner since it can be left out and cats can eat whenever they are hungry.

For kittens, their diet should consist mostly of canned food, which is more nutritious. Keep track of whether your kitten’s diet is on track by regular weightings and also by paying attention to his hunger levels. Kittens should gain weight regularly, but you want to avoid bad eating habits early on such as overeating.

So you are feeding your kitten a steady diet of premium canned kitten food that is high in the nutrients she needs to grow. However, what about when she wants to try people food?

Kittens should not be fed table scraps for several reasons. Firstly, it interferes with their carefully balanced diet and also encourages bad habits. Even worse, certain foods are harmful or toxic to felines. Foods that should never be given to a kitten or a full-grown cat, even as part of a recipe, include: milk; green tomatoes and raw potatoes; onions, garlic, and similar root vegetables; grapes and raisins; and chocolate.

Adult Cat Food

As your kitten grows and starts to look like a full-grown cat, many cat owners wonder: can I feed my kitten adult cat food? What is the difference?

Kittens, as mentioned earlier, have higher nutritional needs than adult cats. If you feed a kitten adult cat food before he is finished growing, he will not get the nutrients he needs. Because cats will continue eating until their nutritional needs are met, he will be forced to consume more cat food, which means more preservatives and filler. This could put your kitten at risk for obesity or medical conditions. Use proper feeding as preventative care; keep your kitten on kitten food until one year of age, and be sure to consult with your veterinarian when it’s time to make the switch to adult cat food.

All of your nutritional questions and more can be answered by reading articles like this, books, and speaking with your vet. After you’ve mastered feeding your kitten, don’t forget that your cat’s nutritional needs change as he grows. A six-week-old kitten needs different food from a six-month-old kitten, which should be fed differently from a six-year-old, mature cat. Throughout your cat’s life, continue to pay attention to your vet’s recommendations and read cat food labels to meet your cat’s dietary needs and keep her happy and healthy.

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A Matter of Instincts

Even indoor cats have the natural instinct to hunt and to stalk. With an indoor cat, stalking generally is not a sign of hunger. Rather, they stalk prey out of curiosity or because they simply need to add a little excitement to their lives. Hunting and stalking also helps the cat get a little exercise and provides a release for pent up energy.

For the most part, domesticated cats prefer chasing mice or other small rodents. Some even enjoy stalking and catching rabbits and birds. A domesticated cat that is well fed will generally just play with the prey rather than eat it. In fact, it is rare for a well cared for domesticated cat to eat its prey. Many people think cats are cruel because they play with their prey, but this is just simply the cat’s way of satisfying its natural hunting instinct and of getting exercise.

When a cat uses its stalking skill to hunt for prey, it moves quietly and attracts very little attention. Cats particularly enjoy stalking in areas with high grass because it helps prevent the prey from seeing them. This stalking instinct can be a little disturbing for cat owners who are also bird lovers. If a cat has a tendency to stalk wild birds that the cat owner wants to be left alone, it can be a good idea to tie a bell around the cat’s neck. This will help warn the birds of the nearby stalking cat.

Negative Behaviors

Besides destroying the wild bird population with their stalking and hunting instincts, some cats can begin to exhibit their stalking behaviors in negative ways. Indoor cats that are the only cat in the household are most likely to develop negative stalking behaviors. For example, a cat can learn the patterns of behavior of its owner. So, when it hears the owner arrive home, it might engage in stalking mode and pounce on the owner and bite him or her on the ankle when he gets home. This behavior is sometimes referred to as predatory-play aggression because it combines elements of play with elements of predatory behavior.

When this happens, the owner understandably becomes upset. The owner might yell at the cat or spray the cat with water to attempt to make the cat stop the behavior. But, this isn’t the proper way to modify this behavior.

Modifying Stalking Behavior

Indoor cats tend to engage predatory-play aggressive behavior more than outdoor cats. This is because indoor cats are more likely to become bored. In addition, outdoor cats have a far greater number of options for fulfilling their predatory behavior – such as stalking small outdoor animals, insects, and birds.

For the indoor cat, however, it is necessary to purchase toys that encourage the cat to stalk. This gives the cat the opportunity to engage in its natural predatory instincts in a healthy way. The cat should have access to toys that both involve the owner and those that do not. Toys that involve the owner help to create a bond between the pet and its owner. On the other hand, cats also need to learn how to engage in solitary play, and this includes stalking and other predatory behaviors.

Choosing Toys

Toys that are lightweight and easy to move are the best types of toys to help the cat engage in its stalking behavior. Bouncy toys are also a good choice, as are toys that hand from the top of doors or from doorknobs. Toys that hang from other items should be moved around the house, however, to help keep the cat’s environment different and enriching. Toys can even be hidden in places such as laundry baskets to add to the excitement.

Toys that resemble the natural prey of cats, such as mice, are also good choices. In addition, toys should be large enough to prevent choking, but small enough to be easily moved by the cat. The material used to create the toy should also be indestructible. Otherwise the cat, particularly kittens, will destroy the toy. This is not only messy, but also poses as a choking hazard.

A cat that is properly stimulated with toys that allow it to utilize its stalking skills will be far healthier than one that is not. In addition, the cat will be far less likely to pounce on or harm the owner or the household belongings.

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